These tips are what professional performers already know and will keep your performers looking great on the audition stage or on camera.
The sort of dance and the personality of the company always direct the mood and look of the makeup. Keeping that in mind, there a few basic rules to follow for professional audition makeup.
The most important tip to remember is to blend well and prevent shine.
START WITH EYES
Blend in eye shadow colors seamlessly. Go light on the eyeliner especially when using black liner. In most cases it’s best to stay with soft colors like brown or gray. Do not meet the eyeliner at the inner and outer corners. Avoid lining on the ridge above lower lash roots, instead use white pencil there, to open and whiten eyes. A short row of false lashes can be used but keep the look natural. Smaller eyes and deeper skin tones can greatly benefit from false lashes. Brows frame your eyes and create balance to the face. Define and shape brows in a shade close to hair color. Avoid red/brown or orange/brown tones unless hair color is red.
POLISH YOUR LOOK
Foundation evens out skin tone and provides a nice polished look to the skin. Unlike the perfect foundation facial match needed for daylight, video and stage lights can make your face look lighter and washed out. But be sure to match foundation to shoulders and chest. Avoid foundations labeled 'light reflective' like Mineral Foundation. These types of makeup can look white and shiny. Poor lighting creates shadows beneath the eyes. Be sure under-eye dark circles are covered with concealer, but be careful not to use too light a concealer, which tends to look fake. Control shine with a translucent face powder in a golden tone, slightly darker than your facial tone, to add just a bit of color. Blotting papers can work great for touchups.
ADD COLOR AND DEFINE FEATURES
On camera a face can look more round and features can appear washed out. Features need a little contour. Apply a neutral brownish pink shade under cheekbones, along sides of nose (unless nose is long and narrow) and sides of forehead to define features. Add color to cheek apples in a pink/red color (no brown, plum or orange colors) to create warmth to the face but be sure to blend! Line and fill in lips with a natural tone or red/brown lip liner. Add color to lips using a cream formula lipstick in a rose, burgundy or sheer red tone. Blend the lip pencil into the lipstick so the colors look seamless. For a softer lip line, apply lip pencil after lipstick. Blend liner into lipstick with a lip brush. Avoid lip pencils and lipsticks in true browns or plums; they can look muddy and wash you out on camera. Don’t be afraid to play with color. Orange or bright pink can appear too bright on camera, but you can try layering color like a pink lipstick with a peach gloss or a sheer red with a beige/gold gloss. LET THEM SEE YOU!
ON CAMERA TIPS
Avoid shiny jewelry, glitter, sparkles, facial shimmer and too much lip shine, as the camera picks up all reflection. Music videos carefully light these extras, so they don’t catch too much reflection and overpower the look.
MEN AND BOYS AUDITION MAKEUP
Most men wear little if any makeup to auditions. Cover blemishes and other imperfections with a little foundation and set with powder. Even out brows if needed and hydrate lips with a lip balm. This should be enough for any audition. On small stages, however, teens and up can use a bit more makeup. Conceal dark under eye circles, cover blemishes or red, uneven skin using foundation sparingly, and set with face powder to control oily facial shine. Keep brows, as well as any other facial hair, well groomed and filled in lightly if needed. A light coating of mascara in dark brown can help draw attention to eyes. If lips are small or the lip line is uneven, use a natural flesh toned lip pencil to correct and a lip tint or lip balm to enhance lip color. The goal is to look as if there is no makeup evident.
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
Auditioning can be a stressful experience. As with anything, the best way to reduce anxiety is preparedness and practice. Try new colors and techniques when you’re not under pressure and have time to experiment. Get the opinion of others on how you look. Watch yourself on video and see how different colors look against your skin on camera.
