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Beauty Tips

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Teacher article

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Recital make-up is a look to set off the costume and set the mood of the dance piece. Those little extras capture the era and style of the number. Whether the dance is 1950s Grease, a ballet classic, or futuristic pop, its the make-up and hair that finishes the look and creates the fantasy. Preparation will ease the stress of worrying if your performers will all show up looking polished and stage ready. A stage makeup rehearsal will get everyone on the same page, work out any challenges beginners might have and help create that uniform look of a truly pulled together production.

Here are important beauty dos and donts to help add excitement and polish to your numbers.

Eyes that come alive on stage.

*Do your eye make-up application first before any other make-up to avoid the shadow dust that collects under the eyes from application. This shadow dust melts if its not cleaned up creating dark under eyes and a muddy look.

*Do apply a shadow base first before any color to the eye. This can be a face powder, foundation and powder if the lid needs some coverage, or a product designed for this called an eyeshadow primer. What ever you choose make sure the lid is perfectly dry so shadow goes on smooth and even.

*Do start with the darkest shadow first and end with the light shadow for highlighting. This ensures a nice blended look and more pop from the highlighting shade. Be sure to use neutral colors (see modedion.com for color ideas)

*Dont sink in eyes by applying the dark shade across the crease from inner to outer corner of the eye. All dark shades should stay at the outer half of the eye to create lift and openness. Use a middle shade to create a crease and the lightest highlighter shade over the lid and under brows.

*Dont line the eyes from corner to corner with black liner. Keep lines open at the inner and outer corner of eyes and only extend the lines out to eye crease. Professionals like to place white pencil in between the lines at the corners to prevent that closed look. Many pros suggest using a black or gray liner on the upper lid and a brown liner under the lower lashes to soften the look. Pencil liners tug at the eye and run easily. Liquid liners take a long time to dry and can smudge. An easier type of liner is a cake liner used with a wet liner brush.

*Dont put false lashes on until the very end of your make-up look. They can be so big its hard to see where to apply the shadow and when loose face powder is applied to set your look the powder can fall into the lashes.

*Do define the brows. Remember brows frame the eyes and provide balance to the face. Make sure they extend long enough at the outer end. If you are using a pencil make sure to brush it lightly into the brow so on stage the brows will look more natural.

Preparing the canvas. Finding the right foundation base color and keeping it looking fresh is easy if you follow these important steps.

*Do make sure skin is prepared first before any foundation is applied. A light- weight oil-free moisturizer should be on the skin before the foundation. This provides a smoother coverage and prevents loosing foundation into the skin.

*Do use a foundation designed for your skin type. In most cases oil-free foundation liquid has the best last. Color should match not only the jawbone to neck but also the body. To deepen a foundation lighter than the body use a darker face powder to add color. So much skin is exposed in costumes and most body skin is golden under toned. Choose a foundation with more of a yellow under tone to insure the face matches. Remember perspiration effects foundation color and can bring out any orange, pink, or red tones causing a mismatch. Blend foundation under the chin and onto the throat for a better match to the body.

*Do blend in foundation using downward strokes. Thats the direction the hair on your face grows so youll get a smoother coverage.

*Dont apply concealer before foundation because of the breaking down of the coverage. Use a small synthetic brush to paint over dark areas and get into spots your fingers cant. Remember concealers are designed for under eye circles and most contain oil so avoid using on top of blemishes. Look for concealers with yellow undertones for a better match.

*Do use loose powder to set foundation in downward strokes. Compact powder is designed for touch ups not for the big job of setting a face. Powder should be golden under toned, as the color will effect the foundation tone. Applying powder with a big sponge instead of a brush will create a stronger set.

Lips and cheeks.

*Do choose lips and cheeks in the same color tones.

*Dont overwhelm the face with color. Lips and cheeks should stand out under stage lights but not be so bright thats all you see. Little faces like juniors need a lighter hand on cheeks and lips so try a sheer red/brown or rose color. Remember to tap the brush with color on it to remove excess before application. This will help cheek color go on softer.

*Do apply two cheek colors to create a professional look. Use neutral cheek color like a brown/pink to contour along the cheekbone and then flush the apples of the cheeks lightly with a brighter red toned shade. This creates definition without looking like you have streaks of bright cheek color along the sides of your face.

*Do use a lip pencil slightly more brown than the lip shade. For red toned lips try a red/brown lip pencil. This will deepen the sides of the mouth so the brighter lip shade will pull forward more and create dimension to the mouth. Be sure to apply lip pencil over most of the lip. For a more even and blended look use a lip brush.

*Do highlight and create pop to the cheekbones with a soft shimmer powder. Create the same effect on the lips by accenting the center of the lower and upper lip with a shiny, sparkling gloss. Accents under stage lights really bring out the costume but must be used correctly. All glitter and sparkles should be applied in specific light catching points.

*Do use accents on the center of the eyelid and up under the brow at the arch. High up on cheekbones, shoulders and chest bones. Even down the part of your hair. For super Glam try rhinestones using clear eyelash glue around the eyes. Use real crystal as they catch the light best and the smaller they are the more elegant the look.

*Dont rub glitter and sparkling powder all over the face unless this is a specialty look. The effect is lost when too much sparkle is used. Always secure glitter with a sealer like Mode Dion's Diva Glue. Remove glitter easily for the next number or to remove any messes, use First Aid tape gently pulling away glitter.

*Do use false lashes. They open the eyes and create a polished look. Cut to fit the size of the eye. Remember lash glue should be applied thinly along the strip base and allowed to dry a minute to get tacky for a better stick. Glue from the outer edge in pushing from the lash tips. Brush your own lashes into the false ones by using one coat of mascara.

High performance hair

*Do use hairnets for buns, non-snag rubber bands to protect hair and strong hairspray to keep flyaway strands in check. Brush bangs back too. On stage they cover your face and create shadows.

*Do add a little shine with gold pomades and sparkle with glitter hairspray or gel.

*Do use a wig, hairpieces, rhinestone hair bands (with teeth for better staying power) to add drama. Perfect for specialty looks they add extra excitement to your number.

*Dont forget perspiration increases the oil production in your scalp. Hair gets dirty faster. Keep your locks clean and conditioned as well as wash your hair brushes regularly. Dirty brushes make for dirty hair.

Men/boys should wear make-up to cover redness and blemishes on the skin as well as wear face powder to prevent shine. Mascara can be worn to bring out eyes and for more drama a soft brown eye pencil blended in can help define eyes naturally. Brows are always important as they frame the eyes.

Performers bag must haves:

Eye make-up remover pads. Non-oily are best. For fast make-up changes, use gentle downward strokes to remove false lashes and all. Never rub side to side when removing eye make-up. Youll work the make-up right into your eyesouch! Avoid Vaseline and Baby Oil.

Scissors(small). Use this handy tool for trimming false lashes, cutting hanging threads etc.

Tweezers. Eye make-up looks its best when the brows are well groomed so keep up on stray hairs. Use tweezers to perfectly place rhinestones too.

Eyelash curler. A must for perfectly curled lashes. Always curl lashes before you put on mascara or false lashes never after. False lashes that have lost their curl can be brought back to life by gently curling lashes with an eyelash curler.

Cosmetic pencil sharpener. Lip and white eye pencils must have a perfect point.

Cotton squares and swabs. Wet cotton squares with warm water and a little face wash to do a fast clean up without even needing a towel. Q-tips are great quick spot clean ups, like mascara smudges or eyeshadow flecks.

Others- band aids, safety pins, fem. products, aspirin, antacids, breath mints, deodorant, extra tights, paper and pen, hair brush and hair spray, bobby pins, scotch tape, first aid tape (for roaming glitter), socks, foot powder, body lotion, nail clipper/file, nail polish remover.

Create a fantasy face. Remember the theme of the look. Make-up changes every era just like fashion. The make-up era looks that set the style in their day: In the1920s black shadow across the lid and deep burgundy rosebud lips was the choice of every flapper girl. 1940s liquid liner sweeping up only on the top lid, with rounded rich red lip. 1950s blue shadow and pink lipstick was the color of the moment. 1960s saw heavy lined eyes, white shadow all over the lid and gray shadow through the crease. The lips are washed out in light beige to keep the eyes the focus. 1970s blue shadow was back but with frost for the lid and white shadow highlighted under the brow. The face was brightened with pink cheeks and pale pink glossy lips. 1980s, the era of excess, saw three colors of bright shadow, heavy brows, and bright lipstick. Think Cindy Lauper.

When creating a fantasy, the era may not play a role at all; instead you might want to play on the imagination of the audience. Create magic by defining the character of the piece. Fantasy character looks and the colors that make them come alive: The ShowGirl. Feathers in the hair, big lashes and glitter everywhere. The brighter the colors the better. The Spanish Flamingo Dancer. Heavy black eye liner sweeping up at the corners, red lips, and a spit curl along the side of the cheek. The Cat. Whether you choose a lion, a leopard, or a tiger, the drama is purr-fect for a feline fantasy. Use face pencils eyeshadows or greasepaint in black, brown, orange, yellow, white, and red/brown. Fairy Princess. A favorite for classical pieces, this look is soft and sweet. Lots of glitter and sparkling shimmers, placed only on the key light catching spots. Man look. This look is a suit and tie, hair parted and slicked back, but the face is feminine. Lips are red or defined with lots of gloss, cheekbones contoured and eyes are shaded in browns with thick black lashes.

For helpful color steps, beauty tips and a complete beauty resource of affordable products for your productions call MODE DION Cosmetics and Training (760) 837-9433 and be sure to see www.modedion.com

Author

Christine Dion

Christine Dion

Christine has more than 25 years of international experience in the beauty industry specializing in makeup for fashion, commercials, television and dance theater. She hasdirected modeling schools, judged beauty pageants, owned Mode Dion Image Center in Los Angeles and contributed regularly to Dance Spirit, Dance Teacher and American Cheerleader Magazines. She created MODE DION Cosmetics for the special needs of performers and her website modedion.com is a full beauty resource for the industry with a great beauty shop and wonderful tips. She currently teaches makeup application and skin care nationwide at conferences and conventions as well as tours educating performance teams. Christine is the author of several self-improvement books including High Performance Beauty (a studio must have) and the producer of helpful stage makeup DVD’s, each one focusing on an aspect of makeup and skin care covered in this book. Christine’s book, DVD’s, products and upcoming tour schedule are available at modedion.com

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